We actually had a GREAT train ride getting here, which has restored my faith in the Amtrak Railpass somewhat. There was even a drunken idiot on board who had to get escorted off by police, to provide on-board entertainment, but other than him the other passengers were friendly as anything, we were up on a double-storey carriage with tons of leg room, and the train was smooth as silk. Anyway, back to clean, green Pennsylvania. We are staying in a very nice little B&B whose very obliging hosts had organised a full-day Frank Lloyd-Wright package for us, including a gourmet packed lunch and dinner at a restaurant, along with in-depth tours of both Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob properties. We also rented a car, and my driving skills were put to the test for the first time on American roads. Very frustrating roads they are, too - the signage is extremely confusing, and we got a little lost quite a lot! Then again, we also found some awesome roads, including one with grass growing down the middle, which Tony and I class as our favourite kind of road!
Fallingwater is probably the most iconic Lloyd-Wright home; built in the 1930's for a rich family, it cantilevers out over a waterfall and is quite the architectural marvel, with beautiful angles and light in all directions. Of the two properties we both preferred this one for sheer pleasure and live-ability. It just invited you to take a good book and a cup of coffee out to sit on one of the beautifully sunny terraces that angled their way up the hillside. The house, including all the original furniture, implements and artworks were gifted in their entirety by the son, and it's just extraordinary what was in there - a couple of Picassos, Diego Riveras, Japanese Ukiyo-e woodblock prints, tiffany glass, medieval sculpture - mindblowing. And, of course, all the custom designed Frank Lloyd-Wright furniture, made especially for the house. Just loved the place.
The second properly, Kentuck Knob, was built in the Usonian style in the 1950's. While impressive, Tony and I both felt that it didn't have the welcoming atmosphere of Fallingwater - it has very low ceilings (Lloyd Wright cared nothing for tall people) and was very dark and narrow feeling, apart from the lovely hexagonal kitchen smack in the middle of the place. Unfortunately we were not allowed to take photos of the interior, for this place was full of even more treasures than Fallingwater, and photos of the outside I found just couldn't do it justice, but it was a very interesting property, just the same, and the view from the edge of the property over the surrounding hills was stunning. Also stunning were some of the sculptures dotted all around the grounds - everywhere you looked there were sculptures peeking out at you from behind trees or in meadows, including the famous apple core sculpture by Claes Oldenburg.Between the tours, we found a beautiful, private little picnic spot in the woods to eat our gourmet packed lunches - I kept an eye out for bear all the while but we didn't see anything....we also went to have a look at the waterfall and beautiful swimming spot that is Ohiopyle, and generally drove around just looking at things. Very nice. Tomorrow we will be spending the day trying to find covered bridges, and then will hop back on the train, this time heading for Dearborn, Michigan - home of the Henry Ford Museum. Architecture to old cars - pretty much sums it all up, don't you think :)
Further pictures from the day can be seen here
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